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"Edge gluing"?
I'm contemplating tackling Ken West's excellent X-15A-2 and in reading through his instructions, he says various parts (such as the pieces that make up the chines) should be "edge glued" to assemble them. I've been modeling for years but I'm unfamiliar with the term.
I get what it means -- glue the edges -- but Ken says nothing about joining strips, and I'm uncertain how just gluing two or more pieces together at the edges, without any kind of backing, provides the strength necessary for shaping the pieces, etc. Is there some technique I need to know, or should I just make joining strips? |
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#2
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edge glueing basically means no joining strips.
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Carborundum Illegitimi Ne Herky |
#3
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Edge glued parts are very common.
For example, if I am gluing a small part against a flat surface, I may put glue on the edges and press it against the surface. Tabs or any sort of joiners are not required in that type of assembly. For connecting "skins" and surface panels, Ken has a method of creating a "blanket" skin by butt joining pre-shaped panels with a minimal amount of glue along the edges. Note...pre-shaping the parts is extremely important here. He then recommends bridging all seams from the back with thin paper (after the initial edge gluing has setup). You could create your own backside "joiner strips" from thin paper and connect your panels that way right from the start. Ken is just suggesting a method of assembly that can give you very tight seams if you edge glue first, and then apply backing strips.
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#4
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Thanks for the info. I think I'll use joiner strips. I have a hard time seeing how there'll be enough tensile strength to work with edge-glued parts.
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#5
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I mostly use them where there is not enough space for joiner strips. And usually for smaller parts where strength is not that important. Unless you really want to damage the model, these edge-glued parts are connected surprisingly strong.
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#6
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Hello dhanners,
have a look Ken West North Armerican X-15 1:32 (fertig) - Abgeschlossene Bauberichte - Luftfahrt - Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um Papiermodelle, Kartonmodellbau und Bastelbogen ! at post 18 and 19, you can see how I prepared the chines before gluing. Not a must, only a a suggestion...
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Friendly PeaceGlue |
#7
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Quote:
I also plan on shrinking the model to 1/48th scale and doing an in-flight pose, without the tanks. (The X-15A-2 flew several times without the external tanks. Despite holding the world speed record for a winged vehicle -- until the first landing of the Space Shuttle -- the A-2 was pretty much a dog. Numerous aborted flights and in-flight failures. And it's fastest flight was its last because the heat damaged the vehicle and it was deemed unsafe to fly. Oh, for a good model of 66670 or even the pre-stretch 66671....) Again, thanks! |
#8
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Hello dhanners,
here https://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/Gallery/Photo/X-15/Small/EC93-41012-6.jpg can everybody see what you mean. But don't underestimate the kit from Ken West. The sharp corners get less and more less from the front to the back of the plane. Some pics from my build. The series is from front to back.
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Friendly PeaceGlue |
#9
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Quote:
As far as edge glueing, I often use it, You just need to have to let the white glue dry a little more to get a good direct grip. It is very convenient, especially in places you cannot reach in to press down some rogue glue tabs. I hope you are doing well, by the way. |
#10
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Quote:
the rear section is made up of about five smaller sections which are each made up of an upper, middle and lower part. Preshape the parts, edge attach and glue each section flat, before attaching the sections side by side to build the entire rear half of the chines. ...and then gently curve the horizontal seams and apply a thin paper backing/joiner strip. I would run a small diameter wooden dowel (with a rounded end) along the inside of the seams to give a rounded corner. Don't forget to round off the corners of the internal formers too. Even burnishing the outside corner after complete assembly will give you a more rounded look.
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