#11
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Instead of the tape (Don's adhesive concerns) how about salvaging some stiff package wrap celophane?
Yogi |
#12
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A couple of variations on the theme...you can print the instrument panel on a flat surface and either make your own or use aftermarket bezels (instrument surrounds) to get a better 3D appearance; these can also be filling with something like Krystal Klear to both get the 'glass' appearance and also to blend the edges of the surround into the dial...
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#13
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Micro Crystal Klear (or however it's spelled?) worked wonders for me in my previous plastic life. I'm out at the moment and have been using Aleene's Tacky Clear, but it doesn't seem to be as good...
__________________
Jim |
#14
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Thank you everybody.
G-S hypo or Micro Crystal Clear are looking like a way to go for me.
__________________
Constructive criticism of my builds is welcome - if I messed up and allowed others to see it, I certainly deserve it Michael Krol |
#15
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I think there is an Aileen's flavor that is specifically formulated for drying completely clear.
__________________
It's not good to have too much order. Without some chaos, there is no room for new things to grow. |
Google Adsense |
#16
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If I understand this... it is how I would make the control panel...
Print two copy. Punch the holes for the dial in the outside copy. On the inside copy, paint the dial area with the Aleene's Paper Glaze. Then when it is try you can glue it together. I think if you need you could put more Paper Glaze on top of the cut out hole you make but it is not necessary? |
#17
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The trick that p*****c modelers use is future floor polish (aka pledge with future shine). It is basically a clear acrylic. You put a drop on the instrument face and let it dry and it ends up rock hard and clear.
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#18
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in my plastic modeling days, I used a drop of tamiya clear
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#19
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I used this stuff;
Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. The glue is used for canopies, windows and windshields, You can actualy make small windows with it, should work for instument panels |
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