#1
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Deciphering the instruction- question
I've attached a picture, hopefully it's there. It's from a Ripper-Works model kit. This would be the curved part of the tire and I'm trying to figure what to do with the white part. I made a copy so I could test it without ruining the original, and I just am not sure. It looks like if you remove the white part completely the black part curves like it's supposed to. I know the center gets cut out. There are no "scissor" indicators surrounding the part. There are no "fold" indicators surrounding the part. With another test piece it looks like if I remove the white part completely the curve is there and matches the diameter of the part it attaches too. I just want to do it right, I have 8 of them. I have a bunch of these ripper-works models and they look really detailed and I want to build them but don't want to ruin them.
Thanks |
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#2
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The white part on the rim is cut out. This then forms the joiner tab for the curved part.
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S.F.C. - Bernie |
#3
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Yes, like cardist wrote.
You cut the white wedge part out so you have a piece with a black line down the middle. Do not fold. It is the joiner tab for closing and shaping the black tire part. The line in the middle is where the two ends of the black tire part meet. Glue half of the wedge, up to the black line, onto the end of one side of the black tire part then glue the other end of the black tire part onto the wedge, butting up to the other end already glued to the wedge. The part should then be in the shape of a very shallow cone frustum.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#4
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Cut off everything white; since the resulting frustum is very shallow, don't bother with joining tabs (the folded line would be too visible) - just do a butt joint.
My (very slow) current WIP has similar parts: Tip: if the part is small, cut the wedge before the inner circle: this way, you can use the center mark to guide a ruler, reducing angular inaccuracy. |
#5
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When you cut the wedge out, if you colour both cut ends of the tyre wall and widen the black line on the wedge before gluing you'll end up with an almost invisible joint.
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#6
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For butt joints, IMHO edge coloring is unnecessary, especially given the effort of matching colors.
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#7
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Thanks for the replies- Very helpful!
I'm still learning the paper model hobby, and I find it very therapeutic and potential incredible detail for paper is awesome. I'm posting my result here with a test part and then a pic of the tire from the ripper-works website. I'm guessing bending the curve on the tire from the "cone-shape" has to be done by hand, which is the way I did it. If there is any more accurate way, I'm all ears.
I'm finding that half the battle with paper models, especially non-english instruction models is deciphering instructions properly. I can use google translate to scan the instructions, then OCR them and then translate to english, but it's not perfect. I also tried using Fiverr to get someone to translate them, but Google translate works almost as well. Thanks again, I really, really appreciate the help |
#8
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Wonderful result. Your tires look great.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#9
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Quote:
Shaping is easier if you burnish the paper on the inside against some smooth surface. For simpler shapes I use spoons, but for toroidal sections like yours finding a proper surface looks challenging. Tip: IMHO paper stretches and retains a compound curve better when slightly damp (be careful!), so I burnish just after laminating with white glue. |
#10
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painting
Quote:
If you had to guess , what type of paint would have been used to paint the tires that would not have damaged the shaping and/or paper? Spray or brush? Thanks |
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