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Old 03-17-2021, 02:55 PM
sreinmann sreinmann is offline
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Glue tabs for cylinders

Question for you rocket modelers and really anyone who routinely assembles rectangles of paper into tubes of model glory. As I dabble in building a rocket garden of my own, I'm finding that when I cut a glue tab out of the same 90-110 grain paper stock, glue it to the back of the part to be rolled and then roll the part around a former, I get a crease at the point where the tab was secured. Hard to get a good picture as an example so I hope you understand what I'm feeling.

I've tried to preshape the part and cut the tab smaller. On my next build, I think I'll just trim out the glue tabs on regular ol' 20lb stock. Doesn't seem that it would be strong enough but ... do you guys have any other secrets to keeping the cylinder from having a seem crease at the edge of the inner glue tab?
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Old 03-17-2021, 10:11 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Try this:
  • before gluing anything, pre-curl your part against a former tube; instead of pressing the paper with your hands, lay it on a flat surface like a cutting mat, printed side down, and roll the tube back and forth over it, one hand at each end
  • if you use thick card and/or the final cylinder is very narrow, use more than one tube, from larger to smaller diameter
  • optionally curl the tab too, then glue its first half. Wait for the glue to set
  • roll the tube again, making the part narrower than intended (edges will overlap slightly). If the flat surface is hard enough, it won't incur in the crease you wish to avoid, but don't roll over the middle line of the tab, lest it assumes an "S" profile
  • then glue to the other edge.
  • now roll one last time. Done skillfully, this will slightly crush the fibers, making them fill eventual gaps and leaving the seam almost invisible
In other words, don't press the paper inwards against the tube. Instead, use the tube to press outwards against the flat surface.
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Old 03-17-2021, 11:58 PM
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Kevin WS Kevin WS is offline
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Scot - I handle things like this by...

a) Cutting the tabs off.

b) I then cut a strip of paper and use this on the inside of the tube when I butt-join the piece together.

c) I then use a rod or something similar in the inside of the tube to "help" the shape.

And as cfuruti says, be sure to pre-curl the paper.

-----------------------

But having said that I am sure some of the rocket specialists have better methods to achieve what you want.

Joe T????
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Old 03-18-2021, 04:43 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Rocket Tube Gluing

For doing really long tubes, my method uses lengths of wood dowel and or PVC Pipe.

Around the dowel or PVC: tape double sided tape in rings spaced about 6-inches apart.

Square wood dowel works best: You can line the glue tab edge with the edge of the dowel-that way the tube does not have a spiral built in from non-aligned edges when gluing.

Here is a drawing of how I make rocket tubes.
Glue tabs for cylinders-rolling-gluing-tubes.jpg

All my tubes have a glue tab. This creates a seam. Use of this seam helps keep other rocket parts aligned on my models.

The chair and table create a gap that you can use to work on the long tube. The dowel or PVC pipe with the tape rings holds the paper so you can line things up before gluing. On really long models, start in the center when gluing and work you way towards the ends, make sure to keep the seam straight.

You're actually talking about the double creases of the backing glue tab: When using paper, too much liquid glue can cause issues with any glue seam. Have you tried a different type of glue? A glue stick might work better at helping hide the glue seam.

Mike
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Old 03-18-2021, 05:06 AM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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I think the question might be how to reduce the bulge/crease of the joining strip showing through the part on either side of the joint. You can see the bulge in the photo.
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Old 03-18-2021, 05:40 AM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCEtoAUX View Post
I think the question might be how to reduce the bulge/crease of the joining strip showing through the part on either side of the joint. You can see the bulge in the photo.
Yes, that's why I recommend pressing the tube/dowel/rod against a flat surface. That way, it won't crease unless the tube/dowel/rod's diameter is too small. It still might create a bulge if too much glue is used, since paper stretches more when damp.
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Old 03-18-2021, 06:21 AM
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Why not feather the glue strip edges with sandpaper, roll the glue strip to match the shape desired and glue it in place.

Another option is to make the glue strip the same size as the inner dimension of the cylinder. This also adds strength to the cylinder. Effectively putting a butt joined cylinder inside a butt joined cylinder.
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Old 03-19-2021, 07:36 AM
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ghaspacer ghaspacer is offline
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To get rid of the bulge that SCEtoAUX is referring to, try using a regular piece of copy paper as the glue tab to hold the cylinder together, the glue will make the piece of paper strong enough to hold.

The copy paper is more flexible and should not leave a bulge or crease on your model.

Zach
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Old 06-29-2021, 01:28 AM
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maurice maurice is offline
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Bit of a late offering.

Also perhaps, try cutting out extra ears to the part and rolling the whole lot to the diam. you want before triming.
That way the ends to be joined tend to remember the curve they're expected to take up.

Also perhaps, - it was once suggested to cut strips of junk mail, roll them up into a spiral without gluing and letting
them expand freely inside the cylindrical part, - but don't know if that one works,
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