How to fit lasercut ships handrails

**Positive_Rate** · #1 07-10-2021, 12:25 AM

Hello all,
Help needed - I am fitting 1:250 handrails for the first time and looking for tips and tricks for doing that.

The model and rails are from JSC's IEVOLI BLACK.

I have preformed the first 2 strips, the first conveniently fits the whole circumference of the bridge deck, the second fits most of the monkey island, see pics.

My plan was put a tiny blob of Kittifix on say the first 4 stanchions (vertical parts) and get those 4 in place and dried. Then holding the rail outboard of the deck do the next few - as many as can be moved accurately into position.

My thinking is doing a few at a time will let me get them in position, only having to concentrate on a few at a time.

What do you think?

(I just don't want to mess up the appearance at this stage!!)

Thanks,
Alan

**romanmodels** · #2 07-10-2021, 04:29 AM

I think you are doing ok getting it bent to shape and then slowly glue the stanchions in place.

**JP64** · #3 07-10-2021, 06:23 AM

Hello

When I need to place the rails on a model (I don’t use lasercut, bu I made by myself in paper... but this doesn’t matter..) first of all I model the rails with any change of direction, on the deck image (scanned and printed or before to glue the deck in place).

Once the rail has been “enough” modeled on the false deck, then I put it at the place, applying a little drop on white paper to the botom of any stanchion where is a change of direction, then i put the rail on the deck and I left the white glue to dry (it becomes transparent).

Once fixed all the principal stanchions, then I glue any intermediate stanchion to ghe deck applying again a little drop of white glue for each stanchion, applied with the tip of a long sterl needle... and I left all to dry at least for one day...

Hoping could help
Ciao
Jp

**Positive_Rate** · #4 07-10-2021, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romanmodels

I think you are doing ok getting it bent to shape and then slowly glue the stanchions in place.

Thanks - good to have that extra vote of confidence before taking the cap off the glue!!

Alan

**Positive_Rate** · #5 07-10-2021, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP64

Hello

When I need to place the rails on a model (I don’t use lasercut, bu I made by myself in paper... but this doesn’t matter..) first of all I model the rails with any change of direction, on the deck image (scanned and printed or before to glue the deck in place).

Once the rail has been “enough” modeled on the false deck, then I put it at the place, applying a little drop on white paper to the botom of any stanchion where is a change of direction, then i put the rail on the deck and I left the white glue to dry (it becomes transparent).

Once fixed all the principal stanchions, then I glue any intermediate stanchion to ghe deck applying again a little drop of white glue for each stanchion, applied with the tip of a long sterl needle... and I left all to dry at least for one day...

Hoping could help
Ciao
Jp

Hi JP!
Thanks, that’s a great description from you and a very good method too, better than what I was thinking cause it’s a simpler idea.
Think I’ll go with that.

Thanks both of you!!
Alan

**hornswoggler** · #6 07-10-2021, 04:08 PM

Rather than trying to go all around an entire deck with a contiguous piece of railing I'd cut the railing into sections, from one corner point to the next. It is much easier to fit these small sections and glue them in place. You can easily add an extra stanchion if your section doesn't end with one naturally.
All the best

**Positive_Rate** · #7 07-11-2021, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornswoggler

Rather than trying to go all around an entire deck with a contiguous piece of railing I'd cut the railing into sections, from one corner point to the next. It is much easier to fit these small sections and glue them in place. You can easily add an extra stanchion if your section doesn't end with one naturally.
All the best

Hi Hornswoggler,

Thanks, yes, another good idea. In fact I've tried both these methods, latter worked well where there was only a short 3 sided section that I fitted in 2 parts.

Not unhappy with my first attempt. When I did the Bridge deck it was fairly easy - plenty of space between bends. The Monkey Island was a different story though as you can see. I need to over bend these 90 degree corners. Also, bending them a couple of times weakens them enough that they're more malleable on the model and don't tend to want to back back towards straight.

Thanks for the tips so far gents, all comments welcome..
Alan