Question about Future/Pledge floor polish

[Sakrison]

I misted Pledge floor treatment (used to be Future Polish) onto a paper model airplane, hoping to get a satin finish (slightly glossy) that would look like dull metal or slightly dull paint. Instead, the polish soaked into the paper and the finish stayed dead flat.

I let it dry overnight, thinking the polish would seal the paper. Then I applied a second coat -- still dead flat.

Am I doing something wrong or missing a step?

[Laurence Finston]

Originally Posted by Sakrison

Am I doing something wrong or missing a step?

I guess it's wrong because it didn't work, but leaving right and wrong aside, it's not the way I'd do it. One possibility would be to buy some paper, preferably not too thick, that looks like what you want and glue it to the visible surfaces of your model. Another way would be to use gouache that looks like what you want. Gouache won't soak into the paper too much, if it's not too diluted. Gouache is always matte. I'm not sure whether it's available in metallic colors, but I know that watercolor is. That would be another possibility.

For painting, some paper is better than others. For painting with gouache or watercolor, I would recommend a lightweight (approx. 100 g/m2, perhaps), smooth (hot-pressed) watercolor paper. Printer paper is normally not that great for painting.

Of course, any of these suggestions should be tested before trying on a finished model.

I don't know what's in furniture polish, but I would avoid using solvents on paper. I don't think paper normally needs to be sealed as such, since it's already been "sized" (using glue), unless it's blotting paper, but if I wanted to do it, I would use fixative (often called "workable fixative") which is basically shellac, diluted in alcohol and make sprayable.

[Sakrison]

Originally Posted by Laurence Finston

I guess it's wrong because it didn't work, but leaving right and wrong aside, it's not the way I'd do it. .

Thank you for the information, Laurence, but it only partly answers my question. I have read in the past about paper modelers coating their models with Future Floor Polish, an acrylic finish, and I'm wondering whether that simply seals the paper or whether it can also give it a satin sheen.

I would love to from anyone who has used it.

(The Future brand was bought by P&G and is now sold as "Pledge Floor Treatment" -- same stuff, different name.)

[Don Boose]

I have only heard about using Future on plastic or resin models, where it works well (or did a decade or so ago, which was the last time I used it - for eliminating scratches on aircraft canopies).

Apparently it just soaks into paper.

Have you tried gloss Krylon? I use matt UV-resistant Krylon to spray the model templates before beginning construction.

Don

[RyanShort1]

Wonder if it would work applied over a non-yellowing varnish?

[VonClostermoz]

Hi ;

I did this with some success but it requires many, many , MANY layers (VERY thin layers) to achieve semigloss finish.



About 10 layers on this Caudron racer

and even more on this one

[rjccjr]

Hi;

Try KRYLON crystal clear satin from a spray can. Experiment with it on scrap card. It might get you where you want to go.

Regards, rjccjr

[airdave]

As Don says, Future is common practice for making clear plastic scratchless and more realistic looking.
But its also used as a clear coating on plastic models.

As far as I know, its a water based product, that can cause bleeding on inkjet printed paper.
Its also too liquid and heavy, it will soak into paper and card very quickly.

It works when it can sit on the surface of a waterproof or non-permeable material, like on a floor...or plastic.

Only way I see it working is apply very thin coats.
Once the paper has soaked up enough, it will start sitting on the top surface, and you will be able to build up a gloss.

A solvent based clear will not hurt paper or inkjet printing.
Unless its applied too heavily, so as to 'wet' the paper.
(I use a solvent clear to seal freshly printed sheets, and on finished models to give a semi sheen. (Its also strengthens colours)

Water borne paints have solvents in them.
Water based generally don't.

Many water based products use alcohol or something similar to help speed up drying time.
I add a 50/50 water/alcohol to my acrylic paints when airbrushing.
Tip: don't buy airbrush thinner, its usually just alcohol and water (maybe with a very tiny amount of oil to lubricate the airbrush tip).

My preferred clear is lacquer clear, but Krylon sprays are the next best thing.
Solvents rule!


...
I don't know this Don, but he has some info on using Future: Don's Airbrush Tips - Future Floor Polish

He references Dullcote Lacquer, which I also use, and works amazing on paper models!. But its very costly (small tins).

[mbauer]

Have you tried a Fixative type spray to seal it first?

Mod Podge might be another thing to try.

Formerly used Future to protect the spit shine on the jump boots years ago.

Mike

[CMDRTED]

as the others have suggested may work. I know several coats of acrylic sprays flat sealer then 5-10 coats of gloss still didn't work. A sealer then the future wax sounds promising.