Sealing paper for model preservation and spray coat- current method not working

[theOshkoshModeler]

Hello all!

As you probably know from my introductory post, I'm still very new to paper modeling in general (I only became serious about it this year after attempting to assemble a few models throughout my middle school years and a hiatus during high school); I'm still learning and adapting different techniques to modeling that work best for me.

Some of my favorite models to build are those of 1:120 and 1:144 airliners such as the ones published by Canon. [I promise, this info is relevant to the topic]
My favorite models in this category, however, are designed by Costa Rican paper model Youtuber and model designer Edwin Rodriguez (Hermercraft); such as this Boeing 757-200 in 1:120 scale:


Six years ago Edwin released a tutorial on sealing paper for gloss spray: [see?]


Not only does the glue layer prevent gloss from being absorbed by the paper, but it theoretically should protect the paper from dust and fading/ink running.

However, this is a method of sealing paper that I am absolutely not a fan of.
I have no doubt that this method works perfectly for him, but I find sealing paper with glue is awful in (my) practice. Anything and everything will stick to the paper as it's drying and it's not even clear how much glue is on the paper unless you run it under a light source.
Plus, the moisture from the glue causes the ink to lift off the page and stick to the glue (I print from a Brother MFC-J1010DW inkjet).

I've tried spraying the sheets directly with Mod Podge gloss spray, but it doesn't seal well and only makes the paper look glittery.
(It did, however, prevent the monochrome toner prints from rubbing off when I used to print from an HP LaserJet MFP M141w, so that's a plus I guess )

I'm sure there are easier and cleaner techniques that I've not stumbled upon yet, what are your suggestions?

[whulsey]

I find the various artist fixatives and sealers work well. Krylon has a product called "Preserve It" that is designed for digital photos and paper products. It is available in both Matte and Gloss finishes. Most art supply and craft stores should have it.

[Laurence Finston]

It's not possible to get the best results using printer paper and the ink or toner used in printers. Of course, it's convenient. However, the best results are achieved by transferring the plans to high-quality paper. This probably means using graphite paper and yes, it's tedious and time-consuming; there is no free lunch. However, in my opinion, the results are worth it. Of course, it's not always possible and for some things, such as prototypes, not necessary, either.

If you want a glossy effect, there are several ways to achieve this. The one I would generally prefer, if possible, would be to use glossy paper in the first place. However, it may not be available in the colors you want. Otherwise, I would recommend a low-weight, smooth (hot-pressed) watercolor paper. I like to use gouache and watercolors. Gouache is matte, so not suitable for a glossy finish. There are products available for making watercolor glossy. Gum arabic, which is an ingredient of gouache and watercolor paints, is supposed to do this. Of course, any additives will reduce the pigment concentration.

For acrylics, there are all kinds of products available, including for making a glossy finish. I've never warmed up to acrylics myself, so I can't say much about them.

Personally, I think watercolor and gouache look so good that a glossy finish would tend to detract from the appearance. Also, if I wanted a glossy finish, I'd make the model out of wood or possibly even metal. However, to each his/her own.

[Siwi]

I've generally been getting acceptable results from thinning gloss varnish and using a soft brush to avoid visible brush strokes, over 120 or 160 gram paper. I have Hermercraft's British Airways 757 and it looks quite like the finish of the real thing.



Others have stuck clear adhesive film to the surface prior to assembling the model. This has the added benefit of creating a flush window pane, if you are inclined to cut out all the windows.

[theOshkoshModeler]

After ordering some supplies from Walmart to test out this afternoon I've found two issues with my previous method: I've been using clear glue instead of white glue and I wasn't allowing the ink to completely dry before applying the glue layer.
White glue seems to be different in formula than clear glue- white glue is more visible when spread and less viscous compared to clear glue.
Using a test strip which has been 'cured' for about 24 hours, Elmer's Glue-All and Mod Podge clear acrylic gloss sealer gives satisfying results.

Trial and error, folks!