General questions

[Sidney Schwartz]

Originally Posted by Laurence Finston

I've found it to be a very useful technique, especially for closing models like these:

Those put me in mind of making paper models of geodesic domes when I was in college, many thousands of years ago.

[Sidney Schwartz]

Next question is what you prefer to use for scoring fold lines.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by Sidney Schwartz

I

Next question. I've been using 65 lb card stock. Is that heavy enough? Too heavy?

It depends on what type of cardstock you bought.

Is it 65LB cover? Probably. However if it is something like 65 lb Index it is a different weight. Laurence mentions in Germany they use gsm. This is the only true way to compare the different card stock types.

65lb Cover is approx. 165gsm which is equivalent to almost 90lb Index.

Cover is a great card stock to use. Tough, has a high brightness rating (ink looks good on it), and generally has a very smooth surface.

In my signature there is a link to Card Stock stuff that might help.

Cardstock in different countries is measured differently, so if you can find a gsm rating you can compare the different types.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by Sidney Schwartz

Next question is what you prefer to use for scoring fold lines.

Plenty of options:
1) Back side of a kitchen butter knife
2) Metal embossing tool (has small metal balls on the ends) You can find these on Etsy-where I bought my last supply from. Also if you have any wax paper laying around that can help with the glide when scoring, just rub the metal ball ends before scoring.
3) Empressor
4) Stylus
5) Knitting needles
6) Empty ball point pen (make sure to soak in rubbing alcohol to insure ink is gone-could add some lines you don't want)
7) check out art supply stores, they have all kinds of options usually

The most important step for paper modeling is "pre-shaping" the part.

With paper models, you don't just cut the part out and glue. You have to make the part first, then you can glue. Pre-shaping is how you do this.

Another important hint: Use just enough glue to get the parts to stick, press super hard to get the glue into both of the paper fiber layers, too much glue requires additional clamping, parts warp out of shape, taking more time to dry, and might not stick together. Bleeds the ink and creates a mess too.

Paper modeling is a skill that takes lots of practice and patience, I used to do plastic airplane models. Sure you had to clean the parts up a little, but the parts are already shaped and all you need to do is glue them together.

Another area that can change how a paper model parts fit together: Do you cut outside the outline, cut in the center of the part outline, or cut inside to remove the outline completely from the model? Stay consistent with how you cut the parts out and the parts will fit better. Personally I like to cut the outline completely off so the model does not have any black lines where the parts join.

Don't forget to "Edge color" the edges where you cut. A grey tint if you can't match the ink color looks better than a bunch of white lines once the model is completed.

Attaching a PDF detail I made several years ago that might help with tools and techniques.2013-Technique-Tools.pdf

@ Texman-Ray we could sure use a new forum called "Tools of the Trade" or something similar.....

Mike

[Sidney Schwartz]

Lots of great info. I loves me these internet forums.

[Laurence Finston]

Originally Posted by Sidney Schwartz

Next question is what you prefer to use for scoring fold lines.

I use a folding bone like this one: Falzbeine | online Kaufen - Kunstlershop gerstaecker.de

I use it together either with a small, flat stainless steel carpenter's square or with a very heavy stainless steel carpenter's ruler, depending on the size of the piece to be folded and scored. Both of mine were made by the company Angulus, which unfortunately no longer seems to be in business.

[Sidney Schwartz]

Originally Posted by mbauer

Plenty of options:
Another important hint: Use just enough glue to get the parts to stick, press super hard to get the glue into both of the paper fiber layers, too much glue requires additional clamping, parts warp out of shape, taking more time to dry, and might not stick together. Bleeds the ink and creates a mess too.

Guilty. I'm trying to do better with this.

Originally Posted by mbauer

Paper modeling is a skill that takes lots of practice and patience, I used to do plastic airplane models. Sure you had to clean the parts up a little, but the parts are already shaped and all you need to do is glue them together.

Plastic cars is what I used to do. It was unusual to not have to make modifications to at least some parts of a kit to get a proper fit. Some kits were lost causes. It also required continually improving a set of skills, so I already know what to expect. The challenges don't bother me...those are actually the most interesting part.

Originally Posted by mbauer

Stay consistent with how you cut the parts out and the parts will fit better. Personally I like to cut the outline completely off so the model does not have any black lines where the parts join.

Yes, also working on that.

[Sidney Schwartz]

Originally Posted by Laurence Finston

I use a folding bone like this one:

I actually have one of those among my plastic modeling tools. Can't remember why, though.

[aansorge]

I am sometimes afraid that I'll mess up a model that is complicated.

I now keep a mental note of where sub assemblies can be cut out or cut off. So 'print and start over' doesn't have to mean from the very beginning.

[-Jim G]

I quit trying to print my own... Ink can be expensive, and as you are noticing, ink doesn't hold up well when being handled.

Instead I get my models laser printed at my local FedEx store. The finish is semi gloss, and is very durable. I spend about $1.50 per sheet. I don't need spray finish. The toner does not fleck off like lasers that I had used a few years ago.

I test build a lot, and if it doesn't work out to have a perfect fit, I will tweak the file and print it again.

For scoring, I dulled the blade of an X-Acto with sand paper. I put that blade in an holder that does not look, or feel, like the holders that I use for sharp blades.

I always like to include a picture in every post on this forum (everyone like pictures) so I will finish with a picture of my latest DHC Turbo Beaver: