general issues part duex

[tetraodontoxin]

I have been dabbling in paper models for a bit, having a hard time making any headway. my biggest issues are with handling and folding. any amount of handling or folding is delaminating the ink from paper. scoring with a tool makes no difference, the ink just basically rubs off the paper when handled or when folded the edges turn to fuzz and the ink looks horrible. i am not new by any means to scale models, ive build a hundred at least in plastic, several in foam and balsa wood. any suggestions or things to try?

[FRD]

It's sounds like you may be using a laser jet rather than an ink jet printer (?)

[Siwi]

I print using a laser jet. Toner will come off if handled a lot or roughly, but hardly in the normal course of building a kit. I can usually cut and bend pieces with no damage. Check you are printing on good quality paper, and that the printer is set for the thickness of the paper. You can also spray clear coat on the printed sheets to protect the print before you cut out and assemble the parts. This has never affected the ability to glue things with PVA.

[mbauer]

Different laser printers can give an issue with the plastic toner flaking off. Older machines mostly, several threads here about laser printing, and card modeling, the challenges of using a laser printer.

Mike

[gregoy]

That's where your problem is... Laser printers are not suitable for paper models because, during the printing, the paper doesn't absorb the laser ink like the "inkjet" ink. Instead the paper acts as a container that hold the ink and if start working with the paper printed with laser before is fully dry, the ink will come off, but even after the laser ink is dry, the ink will crack if the paper is bent.

The inkjet is the best ink for printing models, because the paper absorbs the ink and it dries very fast.

Be sure that you use a paper that allow for the absorbing, other you'll get smearing of the ink.

[Vermin_King]

When I started, I only had a laser printer available. Clear-coating with Krylon Satin was something someone mentioned helped 'enhance' the color. It wasn't until later that I heard that it prevented cracking, flaking and pealing, but it evidently worked.


Several very light dustings of the clear coat works better than a thicker coating at one shot

[Madbrit]

Definitely echo Vermin King. I usually spray Krylon Workable Fixative on printed pieces which seems to keep everything intact.

Derek

[murphyaa]

Another thing to do is to change the paper weight / thickness setting in the printer. You want to set it to heavy paper. It heats the paper more so the toner has a chance to sink in.

[tetraodontoxin]

Hey All, thanks for the replys, the printer I have been using is at my office, its a cannon C5235A, not sure if its an inkjet or lazer printer. the paper I have been using is 20lb hammermill copy paper, astrobrights 65lb cardstock, or laminated 20lb onto manilla folder. I will have to look into the clear coating.

[gregoy]

Originally Posted by tetraodontoxin

Hey All, thanks for the replys, the printer I have been using is at my office, its a cannon C5235A, not sure if its an inkjet or lazer printer. the paper I have been using is 20lb hammermill copy paper, astrobrights 65lb cardstock, or laminated 20lb onto manilla folder. I will have to look into the clear coating.

Did a quick Google search and you printer is an laser one, because it uses toner as ink replacement; if this is the only printer option available for you, using an paper wich allows a better absorption of the ink as others suggested is the best option.