Better(?) Small Scale Radial Engine Cowls

[Rata]

I've been doing this with some success on my recent 1/100 radial engine model builds. I've found it to, a) be easier to build and, b) give much neater results as it pretty much eliminates those tedious and annoying-to-cut-out little triangular 'shark teeth' join tabs.

The basic premise revolves around laminating certain parts to give double and triple thickness which allows direct edge gluing instead of overlap tabs.

Photos are mostly self explanatory but note photo #2 shows trimming off edges where you actually want a tab. After laminating and trimming the under-layer becomes the tab.

Third photo shows having a third lamination on engine and rear plates for extra strength; while #4 shows gradually trimming to fit those same parts for a snug (not tight) fit inside the main cowl cylinder.

The engine plate can be glued after positioning from the inside but the rear one needs a small hole cut in the centre to assist getting it flush with the cowl rear edge using a crude tool for the purpose.

I edge paint before construction and importantly, because of the double thickness, the front tapered part can be coloured in the inside with little fear of distortion.

One small point I've found helps on wing mounted engines, and that is to attach the underside fairing only before mounting on the wing and then adding the top fairing afterwards. Significantly reduces the risk of misfits, gaps and other annoying eyesores.

While all this works on 1/100 and maybe 1/72, I can't say with any certainty it can apply (or even needs to apply) to larger scales.

Hope all this is of some help to others.

Garry

[Siwi]

Good result that avoids many of the common issues with these. I might also add that cutting the engine plate perfectly round and then having the shark teeth on the outer rings cause it to have a series of uneven 'sides' anyway is also a frustration.



The last tip about leaving the upper fairing off is helpful. How successful do you think it would be to have the engine assembly as a tube that is inserted into a large slot in the wing, as opposed to sticking it over the edge of a solid wing? Would that solve anything?

[Rata]

Originally Posted by Siwi

The last tip about leaving the upper fairing off is helpful. How successful do you think it would be to have the engine assembly as a tube that is inserted into a large slot in the wing, as opposed to sticking it over the edge of a solid wing? Would that solve anything?

It probably would if there wasn't any double curvature on the fairing.

[Siwi]

Yes, that would still have to be considered. What I find the most difficult is getting the fairing to stick without gaps to the wing surfaces, often having to resort to using superglue to make it work.

[CMDRTED]

congrats Gary, you've upgraded and revived butt gluing. years ago a member Golden bear used and brought this method to an art but your method looks to be much better as this wizard only glued a single thickness part to the other with only that card thickness. Putting the engines on the wings is another matter that keeps me from doing alot of multi engined aircraft. Let us know when you crack that one!

[Don Boose]

Looks like a rather brilliant innovation to me. I had added this to my Paper Modelers' Vade Mecum and will begin using this approach.

Don

[Rata]

Thanks for the comments folks only I wish this brainwave had occurred to me years ago! Better late than never I suppose.....

Ok, so all very well for radial engine cowls but what about applying the same principle to wheel fairings?