Spray sealing finished models

[cMags]

Warming to temp will definitely be the next thing I try. Thanks for the feedback folks. I'll be sure to post results.

Mike, I got the can at Michael's I believe. You could always call to see if that other store carries it. I do keep my paper with my printer though I never thought about adjusting the paper to temp/humidity. Just have it here for convenience. I agree that the can was probably too cold. I did have it at the recommended 10-12" distance but I'm betting the combination of can too cold and cheap ink was the culprit. Hopefully warming the can will resolve the issue because I'm out of expensive ink and while the replacement ink was cheap, I have a lot of it and don't want it to go to waste. And I don't want expensive ink to be used up by my wife printing 100's of pages of anatomy notes.

[airdave]

apologies, for not reading through every inch of this thread and
therefore repeating things that may have been said already,
but this is what I have been using:

[hawkman67]

Good to know Dave.. and the pic helps, I have used Gloss, Satin, and Matte sprays from Krylon, Like the Satin the best so far and Matte, depending on the model..All with decent results.
Jeff

[cMags]

Thanks Dave. As previously mentioned (and again since you didn't read the whole thread - understandably), I'm using the following can:



I was contemplating picking up a can of Preserve It or Workable Fixatif... Seems the former has a better following here, so maybe I'll try that instead.

I'm also interested in that Low Odor matte finish. How "low odor" is it? Living in the Atlanta area makes me worry about the humidity when trying to spray out in the garage. However, my wife is pregnant at the moment and has the nose of a bloodhound and could already smell the can I used previously from the garage to the kitchen. I may have to do this at a buddy's house...

[B-Manic]

I just got a can of the low odor matte for a model I am painting. It is not offensive at all and what little odor there is dissipates very quickly.

[bagpiper]

Nice thread with some good information. Looks like I have another shopping trip coming up then. :D

Cheers
Jim

[ghshinn]

I was going to mention Workable Fixatif, but you already did. I've been using it for years, with no fogging.

Something that no one's mentioned, so I thought I'd put my two cents in. As you are probably aware, Dull Cote is actually a lacquer. I started using a different brand flat lacquer (can't remember which) for less money and got about the same results. But you have to shake the can till your arm falls off.

Garland

[Jim Nunn]

I normally do not build Ink Jet printed models but this may be useful information. A number of the eastern European modelers use the following process when building paper models. First they set or season the ink this is accomplished by either waiting several weeks or by using an iron set to linen temperature NO STEAM and ironing the back of the printed sheet with a sheet of card stock between the front of the sheet and a flat ironing surface. This is process is repeated at least 3 times. For the flat ironing surface I use a 12 x 12 piece of MDF. My impression is that this is done with both Ink Jet prints and commercial printed models. They then apply a diluted coat of semi-gloss polyurethane varnish to the paper diluting the varnish at a ratio of 4:1 with Lacquer thinner. Taking a queue from one of the posts on this forum where a modeler (if you recognize yourself please chime in) described using nitrate dope on a paper model I decided to give this a try. I thin the dope 2:1 to 3:1 with the proper thinner. I brush paint the back of the paper, my thinking is that the thinner is a lacquer thinner and my cause the ink to run or at least I could loose some of the printed detail if I painted the front of the sheet. I paint the paper until it becomes translucent. This appears to accomplish several things. This adds stiffness to the paper that makes it easer to work with and it also seems to bind the paper fibers so that sharply cut corners do not fray with handling during the building process. I also seem to get better folds and cylinders with the treated paper.

First concern does the paper shrink No it does not I have used Midwest/ Aero Gloss 65-1 clear Gloss and I have some SIG that I will be using next. The finish is flat even though I am using clear gloss but SIG also makes a flat and a low gloss finish. Most importantly the colors do not change.

I have yet to try this out on the printed side of the paper or air brush the dope on a finished model but that is some thing I should try out just to see what happens

A couple of cautions dope is highly flammable and I strongly advise that you do not drink it (just kidding) and defiantly use it in a well ventilated area not in your house.

Jim Nunn

[Lex]

This thread is what I had been looking for. I am trying to find an answer to a simple question, what (if any) is the kind of spray that fixes inkjet prints so they does not get damaged by water, and what (if any) is the kind of spray that makes laser prints adhere to paper more strongly so that cutting and folding does not easily damage the colour?

[rmks2000]

Jim

Thanks for the info. I'd been wondering what technique our European friends had been using with such success.