Edge coloring question

[Royaloakmin]

I tend to agree with Leif - if you can't match, use darker for dark and lighter for light colors. I have a 72 color watercolor pencil set which makes it much easier to get a close match. You can also use a wet brush and take the color off the pencil tip for spots where the pencil tip won't reach.

regards

[SCEtoAUX]

Yep, I tend to use dark edging for dark colors and light edging for light colors. The pencils I use for edging can be blended a bit to get a real close match to the part. A very quick dip in some water and the pencils act a bit like water color pencils.

I also always do the edging right after the part is cut from the sheet. It seems to help a lot. Sometimes some of the white still shows, that is where the water color type properties of the pencils I use come in handy. The pigment seems to flow better, even when some dried glue is present where the color needs to go.

[Jim Nunn]

Originally Posted by Stev0

Interesting. I'm surprised something very important has not been mentioned.

Originally Posted by Stev0

Lighting.

Without the proper lighting your not going to effectively color any project. One time you could be assembling your olive drab tank and color away the edges only to find out the next day your edges are forest green and you failed.

Burn.

Reprint.

Start again.

lol

Stevo,

You have made the most important point about color matching.
I tend to go for an exact match or slightly lighter. I use good quality water colors for coloring and when I start a new model I make a color pallet with all of the major colors used in the model. I mix the colors outdoors in sun light to get as exact match as possible. I do use black and white to adjust the colors while I am building the model. My work light on my modeling table has a 65 watt true daylight white compact florescent light that’s equal to about a 200 watt incandescent bulb. If you trim the black cutline off the parts and match the color as close as possible you can make a seam disappear.

Jim Nunn