#21
|
||||
|
||||
Nice share for the wallpaper seam roller. I think I might buy it someday.
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Thomas and Jim,
Good tips! Any tool and any technique to keep the edges in good shape are priceless. We covered cutting straight edges, so it is good time now to talk about gluing them. But before I do that, allow me to talk about folding lines, and then we'll move to the subject of gluing both. the most popular method of handling the folding lines is to score them on the front or back side with a needle and then fold. I propose to take this method to the next level and prepare the folding lines the same way that the plastic modelers do on the photo etch parts. I have printed a simple model to do this presentation. First, you have to cut the part out of the card with the margin and puncture one or two small holes on the extension of each folding line. Then flip it over and run two parallel shallow scores approximately 0.5mm to 0.7mm apart along the folding line, just to connect the two needle holes. Then repeat the cuts only deeper, approximately 3/4 deep into the card. Then gently scoop out the paper fibers between the cuts. Flip the part to the original position and cut the part out, but still leaving the margins with one needle holes. Flip it again and finish treating the rest of the edges. Now cut the rest of the margins out and you're done. Now wet the grooves and fold. This method will give you perfect fold without any damage to the card on the outside and inside corner of the fold. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Just to add something to what Rutek wrote. The gooves shouldn't be too shallow or too deep. In my experience something between 2/3 to 3/4 of the thickness of cardstock works well. Anything less can cause paper to brake (although wetting the grooves should minimize it) or at least it can make fold more difficult and less accurate. By cutting deeper you risk of course damaging the part. A new blade for the procedure is advised
I like this method a lot. It's time consuming, but results are great. I remember reading about it in book titled: "Books, boxes, and portfolios : binding, construction, and design step-by-step" by Franz Zeier (New York : Design Press, 1990).
__________________
"None so blind as those that will not see" |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Hello Rutek,
I concur with you in every respect though I haven’t tried to wet the paper. I always build kits using almost same method you mentioned. Especially ship’s small parts I can’t build them without using this method. BTW, long time ago at different forum I introduced this method. One of members got interested then we named this method as “cutting-edge technology” :Dand we established CETA (Cutting-Edge Technology Association) |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Hi Rutek. Many thanks for explaining the folding technique. The pictures really helped explain it very well indeed. I see that you are going to be covering gluing next. Could I be so bold as to ask you if you could add gluing long edges in the gluing tutorial. Small edges are manageable, but I find that with the long pieces to glue, the glue dries in places, the edge is uneven, it sets before I get the piece ready, the piece is difficult to hold and glue - usual stuff. :D
Your advice certainly is at the next level for myself and look forward to reading this further. Thanks again Rutek and I hope you are able to answer my question while following your own gluing techniques. Cheers Jim |
Google Adsense |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Cześć Tomek,
Thank you for your input of perfect obs. Yu Gyokubun, Make water your ally. It's worth it.Can I become a member of the CETA? Jim, It will be my pleasure. Gluing long edges is as easy as gluing short ones. It 's actually even easier. |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Hi Rutek. I was wondering why you would use water on the fold and not just put some glue (Elmer's or Aleene's). Would this not serve the same purpose with the addition of strengthening the edge? Excuse my ignorance in this matter. :o. Thanks for your time in helping me and others to understand this process better.
Cheers Jim |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
BTW, since both of us don't get to the forum for long time the CETA was dissolved. If you could assume a chairman, it would be my pleasure to join a new CETA |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
Excellent question bagpiper!
there are a few reasons why you don't want to use glue right away. Most of the time there are some more folding lines then just one, and additionally some edges to be glued almost on any complex part. So, before you are absolutely certain that all of those edges go with each other well, and the part itself matches its place on the model, don't use any glue anywhere. The way to go is to put the part together without the glue (I'll show you how), so you can check the fit. This way, if fitting problem will occur you'll be able to unfold the part for the additional corrections. If you'll have glue in those corners and the problem will occur then well, good luck . The other reason why you want to use water is the accuracy that comes with it. For the folding process you need only the fibers of the groove wet. With the glues that you have mentioned you don't have that accuracy, because they're too thick. If for some reason you have to use glue in the groove right away, use diluted O-Glue. You'll have more cleaner, sharper effect. Third reason. You my want to use tools like a ruler or a tweezers next to the corner to help the fold. With glue in the corner it will become messy. And finally, why to use water in those grooves at all? well, it is just easier to fold something soft then resistant. You'll get more control over that fold. And in case of the situation when the line is printed across the paper fibers direction you'll prevent outside corner's fibers bursting. Especially in the case of the older models. |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the folding tips. Was slowly working my way to those techniques, but would have probably taken me another year on my own experimenting to develop it. Always appreciate when somebody has led the way to cut my learning curve.
|
Google Adsense |
|
|