Seamless Paper Model construction

[cdavenport]

I began building paper models upon my return from Korea in 1989 because my plastic modeling equipment was still in transit, and I needed a hobby fix. Once my plastic arrived, paper models mostly went into storage unless I was on the road. Then, I could build a paper model in the hotel room without the need of putty, paint etc. But, these models were just for "grins," something to hang from the ceiling. I didn't take them seriously, meaning that I had no intent to bring them to my IPMS club to show or compete in a contest. Their purpose was to keep my hands and mind busy as an alternative to catching bar flies.

That all changed last year when I began construction of Renova's HL Hunley and, oddly enough, DGA's 1/72 scale rendition of the Caudron Luciole. It occurred to me that, given the proper level of attention, I could compete and win against plastic models. In fact, I did do just that.

Here's how I did it: ATTENTION TO DETAIL.

Owing to an email exchange with Chris Gutzmer @ ECardmodels, I offer this tutorial on how to build a paper model to minimize and, in some cases, eliminate the seams. By accomplishing this first step, the paper modeler is on his/her way to creating a contest quality model....out of paper!

To begin, one must establish a basic philosophy for building. Here is mine:

1. Seams on models look like oversized zippers! Trains, planes and automobiles don't have canal sized zippers on them. Seams are the bane of plastic modelers, and in IPMS contest criteria the very first thing the judges look for. Having been a judge for over a decade, if a model had an unwanted seam, it was ignored in the competition.

2. Paper models are designed by software that doesn't care about the presence of seams. Further, the preponderance of designs, ship models included, are based on the truncated cone, which just screams seams! Armor models don't have the same problem unless one considers the sloped armor castings of the turret.

3. Paper is a semi-malleable substance which means that it can be somewhat contorted into a curve.

4. It's damned hard to squeeze paper together when it starts to buckle and bend.

5. If you want to minimize seams, you have to start from the beginning. This means you have to be very patient and accurate with basic construction.

[cdavenport]

Part One:

Basic construction starts with the substructure. If you are building a model without one, say something like a Fiddler's Green model, you need to create one.

1. For this tutorial, I have chosen the JM Precision Cardmodels kit of the DH 88, because it has a substructure, it uses a fuselage design that is not comprised strictly of truncated cones, and because it is a truly beautiful design. However, this tutorial applies to any model. See my HL Hunley thread to see what I have done with a ship model: CSS Hunley

2. The instructions call for 1mm cardboard as backing for the substructure parts. I prefer to use artist's illustration board because is dimensionally stable compared to the cardboard to which we paper models are accustomed. You can purchase it from Dick Blick online Letramax 2000 Ruling Mechanical Board - BLICK art materials. You get a large sheet that can be cut into more manageable sizes. The thickness is about 1.5 mm. I sometimes thin it by removing a layer or, if the model is large enough, modifying the substructure to account for the added thickness.

3. Cutting the parts requires care and precision. In the second image, I have highlighted an area that needs careful attention: mounting holes. Tabs will eventually fit into these holes. To prevent distorting what will become a wing spar, I cut out these tab locating holes BEFORE removing the spar from the backing sheet. Once cut free, leave the cutout in its hole. This will prevent you from distorting the rib when you finally cut the part out.

a. Use a sharp #11 hobby blade to remove these parts. In fact, I rarely use scissors to cut paper parts. Using a #11 improves the accuracy and precision when cutting the parts.

b. Cutting in, on, or outside the line....that is the question. For the interior structure, I cut so as to remove the line. I prefer to have the substructure slightly smaller because it is easier to trim for a tight fit than to enlarge a preprinted part.

Give me a few days to complete substructure.

[shawndymond]

Charles - this is superb! I am already dying to see the next post.

I for one, know that there are many times when I have accepted 'good enough' when really there has been no reason why it shouldnt have been exactly right....except for patience and attention to detail.

Thank you for making me sit up and take stock of what I do and how I do it...

[Leif Ohlsson]

I am sure this will be most interesting and instructive, Major!

I have taken the liberty to advice the designer, Jan Hascher, of your good intentions. I am sure he'll agree on the excellent choice of instruction material.

Watching this, and expecting to learn some good things. For starters, I am with you as to the use of harder board for laminating material - though it tends to blunt your cutting edges something awful, both the metal and mental ones...

Leif

[Ekuth]

Watching with interest for tips from a master.

[peaceglue]

I've this kit in my stock, too. So it seems the kit from Mr. Hascher is going to be the best documented kit! I like to mentioned the report from Leif in scale 1:16, also a big bag full of hints and nevertheless a great shared knowlegde of the original. cdavenport, thank you for sharing your big experience in modeling (I'm hoping my english is not to bad). Your aim to tell us all about a 'seamless paper model construction', it sounds so easy, but I'm afraid about this topic by every kit I start to build. greetings peaceglue

[Jan Hascher]

Hi Charles,
Leif just gave me the headsup. I'll be closely following the thread. Regarding the question where to cut: I designed all the outer parts without an outline, just for that reason. And the other parts should be cut centerline. This is the case for most models that are designed on the computer. However, looking at a Halinski model I question that it is possible at all to choose cutting inside or outside the lines. For me the lines on that models are to thin to have that option.

Cheers
Jan

[Loopy]

Subscribed!

[codex34]

Cutting question(s),
1) You cut freehand with a knife?
2) Is that skill you need to practice?, like sign writing.
3) Is there a handedness to cuting with a knife? like with scissors, if your right handed and cut the part out with the part on the left you tend to cut into the printed area, with the part on the right you tend to cut into the paper leaving a thin white strip.
4) any major differences between hobby knives and surgical knives?
5) Handle thickness have much bearing on accuracy?

Sorry, never actually used a knife to make a model with, i've tried but the paper tears, so I don't know what i'm doing wrong.

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by codex34

Cutting question(s),
1) You cut freehand with a knife?
2) Is that skill you need to practice?, like sign writing.
3) Is there a handedness to cuting with a knife? like with scissors, if your right handed and cut the part out with the part on the left you tend to cut into the printed area, with the part on the right you tend to cut into the paper leaving a thin white strip.
4) any major differences between hobby knives and surgical knives?
5) Handle thickness have much bearing on accuracy?

Sorry, never actually used a knife to make a model with, i've tried but the paper tears, so I don't know what i'm doing wrong.

1. Yes, it's an acquired skill. More importantly, one must be able to cut a straight line or a curve while keeping the blade at a 90 degree angle to the paper....unless one is intentionally trying to achieve a bevel cut.

2. It is an easily acquired skill. If you have the right hobby knife to begin with, the chore is made easier. For that reason alone, I recommend Olfa's hobby knife. It has a brass knurl at the finger tips where you need the weight. I have used every hobby knife there is in my 50+ years of modeling; the Olfa knife is more expensive than any other, but the quality and feel of the handle makes it worth the cost.

3. There most certainly is. The issue is with the angle of the blade relative to the paper surface as I mentioned in answer #1. A right handed person naturally tilts the blade to the left; a left handed person to the right. With practice, you can eliminate this bias quite easily.

4. Oh, my friends, the difference is manifest!!! I'll make a long dissertation short. Most hobby blades are made from recycled steel and consequently loose their sharpness quickly. I often say those blades are made from "old battleships." I have even read about some modelers who waste their time trying to save a few pennies by resharpening their old battleship blades! I'd rather be building than sharpening...a philosophy I learned as a furniture builder and wood turner.

Surgical steel blades, in contrast, are hardened and ground to their sharpness, and the blade holds its edge for a very long time. These blades, in particular the familiar #11, can be purchased in bulk at a medical supply house. The downside is that they are exceedingly brittle and prone to breakage at the base if you apply too much pressure....say cutting through cardboard or illustration board. For cutting through paper, though, whooowee! Those blades cut through 80-110 pound stock paper like a hot knife through butter.

The best of all possible worlds is the Olfa hobby knife combined with the Olfa #11 blade. I have tested them all as a consequence of my previous association with the American model hobby industry. The Olfa is my hands-down favorite. The Olfa blade is made from ground, tool-steel which means the steel has a high carbon content which holds an edge longer than any other hobby blade available. However, unlike the surgical blades, it is far tougher. I used to give demonstrations at hobby shows and would use the Olfa handle/knife combination like a lawn dart to show how tough the blade is.

I have, easily, 20 other handles from different manufacturers and hundreds of "X-Acto" type #11 blades. I use the Olfa #11 exclusively. The one I am using right now for this tutorial has been on the handle for months working through several different plastic models, construction of several other paper models, some other projects, and it STILL cuts through the 1.5mm illustration board with absolute ease. A couple of passes and the blade is through the board!

5. I wouldn't say so. The thickness of the handle is really an issue of what type of blade you are using and the comfort of the fit. I have some old X-Acto brand handles that are quite large. Those are more appropriate for chiseling and gouging. For the 12+ years I have been paper modeling, I have never needed anything more sophisticated than the standard hobby knife and a #11 blade. Of course, for the past 8 years or so, I have been using the Olfa variant.

One final comment on this rather long answer (apologies, but I like to be as specific as possible). If you are cutting paper on anything other than self-sealing mat, or one of those plastic cutting boards, you are wasting sharpness. Until I learned better, I used to cut paper on chunks of cardboard, a phone book, or the back of a paper pad. You can purchase an inexpensive kitchen cutting board. You have seen these; they are sort of a milky white and come in different sizes and thicknesses. This material is called UHMW, and is the same stuff that plastic milk bottles is made from. It won't dull your blades like cardboard or wood-based products.