#1
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Stupid Question
I have never made a model from pre-printed sheets before as up to date I have only scratch built paper warships from plans, but following the old saying "Those that don't ask don't want to know", I would like to ask : how do you cut out parts for assembly?
Do you cut them on the inside of the black printed outlined part, i.e so that you finish up with a black outline to every component, or do you cut on the inside of said line so that no black is showing, only the actual colour of the part? This is a genuine question as the scale that I am working to, 1/600, does not give much leeway fror dimensional stability. |
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#2
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I generally cut outside the line [i.e. leave the black], but I think it actually varies.
One kit I own tells you to cut in the middle of the line... sort of odd considering the line gets pretty thick sometimes. I don't think it's a stupid question at all, as I don't have an answer and wondered the same thing.
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- Kuba |
#3
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This question always comes up and there seems to be no definitive answer. This is because of the different way designers develop their models and the fact that many are seldom consistent throughout a model. I believe the best bet is to cut just outside the line then trim to fit. It is easier to remove excess paper than the alternative.
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#4
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Justme
First this is not a stupid question it’s a sign that you are a careful modeler. This used to be a very common question when most of the models were hand drawn and the lines were thick. I would suggest that you make your judgment based on the thickness of the lines. Newer models designed in the last six or seven years have very fine lines often less then the thickness of the paper the model is printed on. On these fine lines I would cut to the middle of the line and dry fit the parts, you may have to trim or sand the part to fit. After you assemble a few parts you will get the feel of how the designer wanted the lines cut. I have found that on the Modelik and Halinski kits you want to cut to the inside of the line. GPM seems to vary but generally cutting to the mid to inside works well. Bottom line cut the part over size and fit the parts this is a little more work but you will get better fits. Jim Nunn
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There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness. |
#5
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Thanks for your replies.
Cut oversize and dry fit seems to be the logical answer and I will let you know how I get on. Now where have I stashed that that JSC HMS SHEFFIELD that needs a proper knuckle bow? |
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#6
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I was a machinists for 16 years. The answer is simple. Do it the same way all the time. You parts will then be consistent. I try to cut in the middle of the line so I always have some trace of where the edge is. You can always take if off t you need too.When dealing in 10th's (.0001) I always rounded up. You can always take if off but you can't put it back on.
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#7
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I think this is still an interesting question, although years ago when I first heard it asked I had not considered it, and didn't give it much thought. I noticed while designing, though, that it makes considerable difference in a few situations. Wheels for instance, and very small parts. for me the rule is a generalization, I don't split the line usually, but cut on the edge that no white shows on the part, and no black shows on the paper. It isn't so hard, I make most of my mistakes when using a blade to cut out small square parts, like a canopy frame of the zero for example, that I cut the supports also by error. You will have to solve these yourself, but it is the angle the blade is held that cuts into the support even though the tip does not appear to. If you cut partway, then rotate to cut the other way, then no worry of this.
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regards Glen |
#8
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At least one designer I know uses no black lines at all, but just an area of color to indicate the part. Cutting them out is tricky, but the result is exceptionally clean and smooth looking. And of course, no dotted fold lines either.
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#10
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Huhm, on second thought JUST CUT IT OUT AND GLUE IT TOGETHER!
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regards Glen |
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