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Painting a model?
I'm sure this has been discussed here before but I can't find any advice doing a search. Can anyone offer advice on how to paint a model without ruining it? I've tried a few times and every time I try the paper just absorbs the paint and warps the paper really bad. I would like to build a model of a delorian and want to Spray the body with a spray paint to make it look more like stainless steel. Any advice or links to a tutorial would be helpful. Thanks.
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#2
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If you coat the entire model (primer, sealer, base coat, detail painting, final sealer) it can be done.
But if you just want to augment certain areas, it can be tricky. Best way is to spray your effects. But unlike a plastic kit, its hard to spray the body by itself...without attached parts, like windshield, etc. Its also very hard to mask a paper model for painting, without damaging it. It would be better to adjust the finish in editing before you print parts. but...I have airbrushed shading and light colouring onto a finished paper model. Using premixed airbrush acrylic colours, no extra thinning, and very light coats. Airbrushed paint is virtually dry when it hits the surface, so as long as you don't over-apply and flood the surface with wet paint, you won't have a problem. Take your time...build up the dry paint. You might also consider pre-sealing the printed pages before assembly and then a final seal coat on the model after assembly and before painting.
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#3
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Thank you very much. What do you recommend for a sealer?
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#4
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Can't speak for Dave, but I usually go for Krylon Clear Satin
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#5
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you have to try different sprays.
over the years I have found new sprays and switched. I tend to look for cheaper alternatives. Krylon has a selection of clearcoats, fixatives and inkjet preservatives. Depending on your location (humidity, etc) type of print, and your method of spraying, you might try different types of spray. I like Krylon products...they are reliable. But they can be pricey, and sometimes hard to find. Preserve-It is amazing for inkjet prints and photos. Right now I am having good luck with a Beauti-Tone Interior/Exterior Clear Lacquer (gloss). Its a Canadian hardware store brand. I spray one or two light coats to seal the freshly printed page. It soaks in fast and doesnt leave a gloss unless you spray it on heavy. I have also used it to apply a satin sheen to an assembled model. I do it to deepen and enhance the colour. Once again, avoid laying it on heavy, and you can avoid the glossy effect. It would also make a good base to paint, but any clearcoat would do that.
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#6
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This is an interesting question, taking into account that a lot of people don't consider painted paper models as "true" paper models.
I experimented a little bit on how to best prepare the paper for the painting and I guess weathering process later on. In my experience, after finished with the model building, I use an acrylic primer such as Vallejo in a spray can, which allows for a thin coat of water-proof layer. Usually, applying three coats should be enough. After that you can pretty much do as you wish - I use Revell Aqua Color (acrylic) and basically treat the paper models as a plastic models. Also, take a look on the following thread where a lot of people helped me with the same topic: Painting paper models |
#7
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Quote:
Printing technology and digital arts got aircraft looking absolutely stunning (see Yoav models) while doing same with flat surfaces like tanks can be trickier. |
#8
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I've always criticized those who use paper, filler, primer and paint (along with other materials)
to build a models and then call them "paper models". Thats my opinion...I think those are "mixed-media" models and not specifically paper. But you have to acknowledge that painting, or painted effects and weathering are no different than a pre-printed model...the ink is the "paint". Even a coloured paper model has a dye added to the paper to create the colour. While I have never fully "painted" a paper model, I have used an airbrush to add colour and weathering effect after the model was completed. Clear-coating/sealing/waterproofing falls into a completely different category (in my opinion) and is a sometimes necessary evil of paper model art. Back to the topic of adjusting/modifying the printed finish of a model, I wonder if printing the model part sheets and then applying airbrushed effects to the parts before they are cut from the sheets, is an option here. (The original topic was about modifying a DeLorean model to look more like genuine stainless steel) If a gently airbrushed effect was added over the printed textures ...not so much as to 'wet" the paper and cause wrinkles and buckling... you could alter the finish. Keep in mind, DeLorean panels were a brushed effect (thousands of tiny scratches, mostly in the same direction) and then clearcoated with ordinary automotive clearcoat. Keeping bare stainless clean would have been a nightmare! Anyone who has a stainless steel Fridge can attest to that!!!! lol Its all about light refraction and reflection...hard to recreate the effect of the clearcoat with 2D paper. Unless you actually use clearcoat.
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#9
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I use enamel to paint paper models. I seal it with shellac.
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#10
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Quote:
My recipe that I tried several times and worked great is: Apply 2-3 light coats of a good acrylic primer out of a can or airbrush (I use big Vallejo cans since I don't have an airbrush, they are cheap and cover well) Apply 4-5 really thin coats of acrylic paint in order to avoid brush strokes (Revell Aqua Color is good since it can be easily thinned with water and also cleaning the brushes is easier, not to mention no odor) After this, you have a sealed and plastic-like surface that can be further treated with enamels, oils, etc. just as another plastic model. |
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Tags |
painting, repainting, spray painting |
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