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  #11  
Old 04-22-2010, 09:21 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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You're welcome! Any more questions? Just ask.

I've done this so much that it comes as second nature to me, but it those little steps that sometimes slip by...

Are you designing without a computer? Or are you doing this in a drawing program?

Mike
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2010, 09:53 AM
Maltedfalcon Maltedfalcon is offline
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Pretty cool but I am lazy.
I use Cone by J J van Der Sande a program that was created for making transitions for exhaust pipes. but I have used for paper modeling for years.
Cone*Layout - Product

It is incredibly easy and accurate (free for 21 days, then is 30$ or so to unlock,
well worth the money. (especially if you are doing a model with multiple transitions.)

There is a minor hoop to jump through.
you set the page size in cone to 8.5x11 and create your cone it as an .eps file. in paint shop pro you need to import the eps file in a bounding box. (I just make sure I use standard page sizes.)
meaning the bounding box I import in is 8.5x11, and since you set the page size in cone to 8.5x11 then everything stays 1:1 and you have no sizing issues.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2010, 12:29 PM
Getter 1 Getter 1 is offline
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Mbauer,

Great :D This makes you a hero :D I do some design work but the hard way (MS Paint) and this helps a ton :D

G1
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2010, 03:14 PM
Cloud_Ratha Cloud_Ratha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbauer View Post
You're welcome! Any more questions? Just ask.

I've done this so much that it comes as second nature to me, but it those little steps that sometimes slip by...

Are you designing without a computer? Or are you doing this in a drawing program?

Mike
Kind of,

Im designing by hand using Illustrator, a Vector Design program.

Im still trying to get the hang of designing. I started a thread in the Design Thread area for bumblebee. my cones were nowhere near right. So this is very useful.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2010, 05:02 PM
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Paladin Paladin is offline
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That is an awesome tool, thanks so much. It helps for those few of us who do their designing by hand like me........Did I hear crickets? Anyone else out there? Helllooooo..... OMG you mean I'm the only dork doing it that way?!!
Sorry guys I'll shut up now.:(
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  #16  
Old 05-27-2010, 08:56 PM
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Retired_for_now Retired_for_now is offline
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I can cut a lot of wood by hand in the time it takes me to set up the table saw ...
But if I need to do a whole bunch of cutting, it's worth the setup time.

Yogi (it ain't dorkage - right tool, right job)
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2010, 09:38 PM
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looker looker is offline
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After step 3) you can find the size of the angle OAC in degrees by dividing the radius of the base ( that's half of AB ) by the slant height of the cone ( OB ) and multiplying by 360. Very simple calculation that will give a more accurate answer. Also saves on string.
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:42 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by looker View Post
After step 3) you can find the size of the angle OAC in degrees by dividing the radius of the base ( that's half of AB ) by the slant height of the cone ( OB ) and multiplying by 360. Very simple calculation that will give a more accurate answer. Also saves on string.
Hi Looker,

Thanks! Was wondering what the math was, not to good with it, but it does help to undestand why this manual method works.

Mike Bauer
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2010, 09:28 AM
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lancer525 lancer525 is offline
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There's a free program over on Gremir's site called "Siatki" that does exactly this without all the mental mathematical machinations... I use it because I am geometrically challenged, and unable to think in translation from 3D to 2D.

Just thought I'd share.... :D
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  #20  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:23 PM
bigbenn bigbenn is offline
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Hi,
If I want to draw and build a cone by hand, I look around my home for a plate or a round object like a bottle base, to draw around or I use my protractor and a black biro to draw a perfect circle.
All I have to do then is to remove a triangular wedge from the circle, making sure that the pointy end is at the middle of the circle and then when I drag the edges together, I have a cone shape which I can hold together with a paper tab glued over the inside of the two joins.
If I want a cone tube, then its a case of drawing two circles, one inside the other with my protractor, using the same point in the middle of the circle to draw the second circle.
When I cut out the outer circle and the inner circle on the same sheet, and remove a triangular wedge, as above, when I draw the edges together, I get a hollow tapered cone.
Of course, by overlapping the edges, it is possible to get a smaller cone shape and if that is the desired outcome, just use a biro to mark the outside edge position on the inner cone shape, then unfurl and cut off the waste and join internally with a paper tab.
Once you get the hang of it, it is really simple to make up cones of a specific size.
I used this technique to build the gun encasement on an American Civil War Ironclad I built some years ago. I also use the same technique to make wheels look like they are inflated, instead of having a flat wheel and hub surface. It is easy enough to flatten slightly, one side of the wheel, to give the impression the weight of the vehicle has depressed the tyres of the card model vehicle.
BigBenn
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