#41
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Question ? Is the head 'looking to the right' part of the design, or is it an optional rotation?
On most of my bird builds I try to achieve a more life-like pose by turning the head slightly, warping the wings out of symmetry a little, and injecting some 3D effect into the too often flat legs.The 3D legs are already well designed on this model, but for me I would try to stroke a bit of curvature into the unnaturally straight tubes of the legs and toes. And those gaiters are screaming out to be wet warped to smoothly fit around and in between the toes. Don't take offense Dave. It's a damned good build. I guess I'm just thinkin' out loud, 'cos you've convinced me that I've gotta build this one. I almost never build models "as per design". I just HAVE to inject some extra things to personalise my builds. Most often by printing A4 designs to fit A6, A5 or A3 card, but with birds I try to achieve life size if possible. Eagles being an exception though ... 'cos they're too damn big to fit in my conservatory. Yep ... I'm the guy that half sized Malcolm's Osprey. There's lots of bending, burnishing, and colouring applied to get rid of the un-lifelike peaks and seams too. Not that it's always successful like. I often resort to building an "as designed" model alongside a "re-sized" one to figure out the designed construction method and decide where any warps are required, before applying any modifications to the 'Prime' build. Especially with Pepakura models, where I keep a 'Lined' version on-screen for reference whilst building an unlined print out, but avoid actually creasing any fold lines unless vitally necessary. This allows the card to adopt much more natural curves ... especially if worked on with burnishing tools. I'm rambling, ain't I? Fresh off a 5 hour chemo infusion and I ain't come down yet. Look forward to the finished model pictures, and I'm sure Mum will love it. Keep on snippin' ... Johnny. |
#42
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Parts overlap onto solid colour areas.
Visible patterns that have been deliberately place to help you position parts. Thats why you can't vary things too much. The placement and angle of the neck/head is prearranged. Attache photo is the main upper body part. Vertical center of the part would be the back of the bird.
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#43
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Yeah, I can see what you mean, but a little work with water colour pencils or pastel chalks on the grey areas should enable alternative rotation positions OK. Another case for building an experimental rough alongside the final build.
Stop pleading poverty guys. Most of us have scanners nowadays, it's only paper, and Corn Flake boxes are even cheaper. You'll also find that Ink can be up to 70% cheaper if you learn to re-fill your own cartridges or fit a CIS unit. Keep on snippin' ... Johnny |
#44
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Dear AirDave:
I two Suggest that you do the clear gloss nail Polish on the Eyes and beak and toenails one coat on the beak and toes but lots on the eyes. I have done this on cats and tigers. Miles |
#45
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Here it is....my Mother just posted this on her facebook page.
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SUPPORT ME PLEASE: PaperModelShop Or, my models at ecardmodels: Dave'sCardCreations |
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#46
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nice...great gift
merry christmas |
#47
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Came out very nice.
Also a nice comprehensive build thread. Thank you!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#48
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Turned out very good and is a very nice looking gift.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#49
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Nice realistic result Dave. Well done. Told ya Mum would love it.
Maybe a Firecrest, Wren, or Hummingbird next? She'll love them even more. Nah, I didn't get the Owl in me Xmas stockin', so I guess I'm gonna have to wait for me Birthday ... or maybe even buy it myself?
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Keep on snippin' ... Johnny |
#50
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Yay, you made it on time! And it looks great. I have this kit in my "to-build" stash (I got it as a prize at IPMC), but it hasn't made it to the front of the queue yet. It always looks so good, I really have to make time for it someday.
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