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Hoopoe - Johan Scherft
Well, following in from the Scops Owl, I have decided to build another bird I also had printed out some time ago.
Again this is another of Johan Scherft’s kits - this time the Hoopoe! ------------------------------------------------------ The model is life-sized and a nice representative of this bird. A little bit about the Hoopoe…….
The model is available from Johan’s site as a download and is priced in Euros. The model consists of 3 A4 pages, each with a scale on the one side to ensure your prints come out at the right size. Accompanying the model are a colour picture of the finished item and three printed pages of instructions. The latter are all line drawings accompanied by explanatory text. The model pages should be printed on 120-gram paper - in the USA/Canada, use 26lb bond or ledger – at the end of the day you are looking for a paper thickness .065 of an inch +/- 0.004 inches. For the bird models the correct paper size is important, so don’t use any thickness that is radically different. Compared to the Scops Owl the build method is a little different - the Scops Owl was basically a giant "egg", while due to the use of skewers as legs, the Hoopoe is more modular in construction. The picture below shows the 3 model sheets – the white overspray is my work! ----------------------------------- I have some pictures of the real thing I will dig out and in the meantime will start work!
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The SD40 is 55 now! Last edited by Kevin WS; 10-07-2018 at 12:57 PM. |
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Here is the real thing - taken in our garden, but not a very frequent visitor, unfortunately. Starlings take over the nesting spots the Hoopoes use and the latter then depart.
Here is the classic shot of the Hoopoe everyone recognises - with the crest fully up. And next a hunting sequence - dinner! Note now, that as is normal, the crest is down...... The size of the earthworms is amazing as is the fact that the ground is very hard, yet they seem to have no problem digging in!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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The Hoopoes - Duchifat its our national bird.
Great model ,made it for the kindergarten in our vilag years ago...have fun |
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Wonderful hoopoe images, Kevin!
I look forward to seeing this bird take shape under your skilled hands. Don |
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Asaf - thank you very much for that very interesting bit of information. I never knew that the Hoopoe was Isreal's national bird. Are they common in Isreal?
I did know in ancient Egypt it was also regarded as sacred. --------------------------------- Thank you Don. I only hope I can do the model justice. I sometimes go through phases and everything seems to go wrong when I am building!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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In The Source, his novel about the history of the Jewish people and of Israel, James Michener used the hoopoe as a leitmotif. The bird hops through the entire book and the title of Chapter Five, which takes place during the later years of the reign of King David, is entitled "Psalm of the Hoopoe Bird."
Don |
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Interesting Don.
The bird features a lot in mythology - Indian, Greek and Persian - as well as in the Bible and Koran. Perhaps because of its dramatic appearance and the fact it also often inhabits remote areas, which may give it a touch of the exotic. It was also believed to have medicinal powers. In an early Persian poem ("The Conference of the Bird") which is an allegory, the Hoopoe plays the main character - a Sufi master who leads a pilgrimage to find God. In East Africa, there were also many tales (with an Arab/Persian origin) about the Hoopoe. There is one rather nice one about (of course!) how the Hoopoe got its crest, which I will post in this thread at a later stage!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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You are clearly modeling a magical and legendary bird, Kevin!
Don |
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Onto the actual modelling……..
The first step was to cut out all the pieces before starting – something I tend to do with some models if the parts are not too numerous, or likely to get mixed up! This was obviously straightforward – there are a total of only 20 pieces – although this does not mean it is a rapid build. You also need to find 2 skewers (used to make the legs). Take care when cutting out and look carefully at the parts where there are cuts into the actual part – for instance in the wings (parts 6 and 7) and the one head part (part 13), where the cut from the one bottom part should follow the curve above. See Picture 1 below. If in doubt when cutting out, just hold back until you get to the building stage and you are able to dry fit the part. The need for lengthening any cuts will then become clear. TIP
Picture 2 shows the boxes stacked, as well as their comparative sizes. Pictures 3 and 4 show the boxes with their lids off. Pictures 5 and 6 – When I travel I sometimes take one of the small boxes, put my basic tools in the bottom and then put the tray with model parts to work on in and close it up. I pack the voids with toilet paper and then stick it in my suitcase. The lid makes a useful tray as well. Picture 7 – This shows the sloping bottoms to the compartments – very useful for getting tiny pieces out. Picture 8 – Just a shot to give you an idea of size. You can also see some boxes stacked on the chair.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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The start of the build is the middle of the body, to which legs and tail will be attached, and then later the chest.
Picture 1 shows the middle part of the body cut out and ready to go. Pre-score all the tabs, and as it basically makes up into a cylinder, pre-shape by curving the body part around the vertical axis. Then start by glueing the end marked B where the legs will go. I glued 2 to 3 tabs each time, alternating on each side. After glueing a tab I then place the next tab ON TOP of the part. This ensures the first tab is “seated” accurately. After the first tab has dried, this tab is flipped back down and then glued, while the following one, in turn, is flipped up. This helps to get the seams spot on and tight, and is especially useful if you are working with a curved edge. Picture 2 shows the first end of the middle body secured. Repeat the process for the other of the part. When you secure the second end, you can use the hole in the B side to help you hold down the last few tabs inside the part. Pictures 3 and 4 show the finished result. Picture 5. The two skewers for the legs can then be cut out. These should be about 4mm (.15 inches) across and 7cm (2.75 inches) in length. You do not have to cut them any longer as the exact size works well. Picture 6. Using plenty of glue fix them in place and this part is then complete. Next stage will be the lower body and tail.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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