WH40K Intimidator

[cfuruti]

Originally Posted by rockpaperscissor

cfurti, my "camera" is my vintage single lens Motorola android phone.

It doesn't matter, as long as it's digital. It's simple, actually. First think of a white sheet of paper

1. outdoors between 10AM and 2PM
2. indoors, at night under an old-fashioned incandescent (tungsten) lamp
3. now under a fluorescent, tube-shaped lamp.

The tungsten light will make the paper appear more yellowish than reality, while the tube lamp will give a subtle greenish tint. Well, that's what would appear if captured in a good analog film. Our brains can compensate up to a point: if you or me take a glance at scene 2, we think "white" with no hesitation, even before recognizing the object as a pristine sheet of paper.
Now enter digital cameras and smartphones, whose supreme mission is making sure absolute amateurs can take amazing pictures. One of their tricks is auto white balance: they are programmed to believe "normal" scenes have a certain "correct range" of colors. When you shoot something with, say, lots of yellow tones, the device's software "thinks" something like "hey, there's too much yellow in this scene, it is probably illuminated by a tungsten lamp" and automatically shifts all colors to far from yellow, resulting in a picture more bluish than reality*. Change your angle, modifying the distribution of colors, and the device may balance differently, resulting in nonuniform tones across pictures.
The solution: many devices can lock white balance in a fixed setting (e.g., daylight, tungsten, fluorescent**) to avoid hypercorrection and ensure uniformity***


*I got aware of this in sunset pictures. Having glorious crimsons reduced to pale, boring goldens is so frustrating.
**In my current smartphone, the setting is by temperature; it's more precise but I find it awkward; astronomy fans know that red is relatively cool, yellow is intermediary, white is hot and blue is super hot, but I don't want to remember whether 5000K is cool (tungsten) or hot!
***Obviously, avoiding auto mode can lead to another kind of frustration: take a lot of correct pictures tonight, then ruin lots tomorrow because one forgot to change from tungsten to daylight

[RogerYoung]

Nice!
And a very clean build (so not like my builds).
I needed to look thrice to realize that the rivets are printed and are not actually 3d. But... this is more of a matter of the template, right? Patoroch?

I do not use pre-colored templates, so i compare everything with hand-painted models.
As for paper... whatever i could recommend is most likely not available where you are located.

I use whatever 160g paper i get in my hands. That's just the heaviest type my (sw) laser printer can handle and never had issues with those. But again, my building techniques are only remotely similar

[rockpaperscissor]

Thank you for your comments, Roger. I always fully recolor Patoroch kits for a better look. His colors are monochromatic, and his rivets (and there are a LOT of them), are simple donuts. I try to make my models appear more 3D. I'm glad my rendering of the rivets fooled you - at least for a while.

Another reason I recolor Patoroch's kits are to save ink. I eliminate the color from the areas of the model that will be covered by other parts. Sometimes much of the previously fully colored page will be mostly white.

A final reason I rework his kits are to move all the parts that are to be laminated to cardboard onto their own page(s) so I can just glue the entire page with spray adhesive (I like Gorilla glue brand).

There are many different cardstock brands available to me, and I've had good luck with most of them. This Hammermill stuff is another story, and I'll be sure to avoid it in the future.